Town Home
131 Cedar Street - Newington, CT 06111-2644 - Phone: (860) 665-8580

When is a permit required?
What Inspections do I need?
What will the Permit fee be?
How long will it take to get a Permit?
Why do I need a Permit?  
Do the Inspectors have a cell phone to contact them?
Do I need a permit to build a fence?
Where can I get a copy of my plot plan?
If I build or purchase a prefabricated shed do I need a permit? 
Do I need a permit to install a pool ? 
Do I need a permit to install a deck?
Do I need a permit to replace my windows?
Do I need a permit for a pellet/wood/coal stove?   
Who is responsible for obtaining a permit?
Why should I hire a licensed contractor?
Do I need a permit to convert my basement to a spare room?
What permits require the installation of smoke/carbon monoxide detectors?
What codes are used by the Town of Newington? 
Do I need a permit to install a generator? 

When is a permit required?

A permit shall be obtained before beginning construction, alteration or repairs, other than ordinary repairs, using application forms furnished by the building official. Ordinary repairs are nonstructural repairs and do not include addition to, alteration of, or replacement or relocation of water supply, sewer, drainage, drain leader, gas, soil, waste, vent or similar piping, electrical wiring, or mechanical or other work for which a permit is required by the building official.


 Work exempt from permit. Permits shall not be required for the following. Exemption from permit requirements of this code shall not be deemed to grant authorization for any work to be done in any manner in violation of the provisions of this code or any other laws or ordinances of this jurisdiction.


1. One-story detached accessory structures used as tool and storage sheds, playhouses and similar uses, provided the floor area does not exceed 200 square feet (18.58 m2).

2. Fences not over 6 feet (1829 mm) high.

3. Retaining walls that are not over 3 feet  in height measured from the finished grade at the bottom of the wall to the finished grade at the top of the wall, unless supporting a surcharge.

4. Water tanks supported directly upon grade if the capacity does not exceed 5,000 gallons (18 927 L) and the ratio of height to diameter or width does not exceed 2 to 1.

5. Sidewalks and driveways and on grade concrete or masonry patios not more than 30 inches above adjacent grade and not above any basement or story below.

6. Painting, papering, tiling, carpeting, cabinets, counter tops and similar finish worknot involving structural changes or alterations.

7. Prefabricated swimming pools that are equal to or less than 24 inches (610 mm) deep.

8. Swings, non - habitable tree houses and other playground equipment.

9. Window awnings supported by an exterior wall which do not project more than 54 inches (1372 mm) from the exterior wall and do not require additional support.

10. Decks not exceeding 200 square feet (18.58 m2) in area, that are not more than 30 inches (762 mm) above grade at any point, are not attached to a dwelling and do not serve the exit door required by Section R311.4.

11. Repairs that are limited to 25% of roof covering and building siding within one calendar year


1. Minor repairs and maintenance: a permit shall not be required for minor repair work, including replacement of lamps and fuses or the connection of approved portable electrical equipment to approved permanently installed receptacles

2. Listed cord-and-plug connected temporary decorative lighting.

3. Reinstallation of attachment plug receptacles but not the outlets therefore.

4. Replacement of branch circuit overcurrent devices of the required capacity in the same location.

5. Electrical wiring, devices, appliances, apparatus or equipment operating at less than 25 volts and not capable of supplying more than 50 watts of energy.


1. Portable heating or cooking appliances with self contained fuel supply.

2. Replacement of any minor part that does not alter approval of equipment or make such equipment unsafe.

3. Portable-fuel-cell appliances that are not connected to a fixed piping system and are not interconnected to a power grid.


1. Portable heating appliances with a self contained fuel supply

2. Portable ventilation appliances.

3. Portable cooling units.

4. Steam, hot- or chilled-water piping within any heating or cooling equipment regulated by chapters  18 to 24 inclusive of the International Residential Building codes.

5. Replacement of any minor part that does not alter approval of equipment or make such equipment unsafe.

6. Portable evaporative coolers.

7. Self-contained refrigeration systems containing 10 pounds (4.54 kg) or less of refrigerant or that are actuated by motors of 1 horsepower (746 W) or less.

8. Portable-fuel-cell appliances that are not connected to a fixed piping system and are not interconnected to a power grid.



1. The stopping of leaks in drains, water, soil, waste or vent pipe; provided, however, that if any concealed trap, drainpipe, water, soil, waste or vent pipe becomes defective and it becomes necessary to remove and replace the same with new material, such work shall be considered as new work and a permit shall be obtained and inspection made as provided in Sections R-105 and R-109 of the International Residential Code.

2. The clearing of stoppages or the repairing of leaks in pipes, valves or fixtures, and the removal and reinstallation of water closets, provided such repairs do not involve or require the replacement or rearrangement of valves, pipes or fixtures.

 Emergency repairs. Where equipment replacements and repairs must be performed in an emergency situation, the permit application shall be submitted within the next working business day to the building official.

 Repairs. Application or notice to the building official is not required for ordinary repairs to structures, replacement of lamps or the connection of approved portable electrical equipment to approved permanently installed receptacles. Such repairs shall not include the cutting away of any wall, partition or portion thereof, the removal or cutting of any structural beam or load-bearing support, or the removal or change of any required means of egress, or rearrangement of parts of a structure affecting the egress requirements; nor shall ordinary repairs include addition to, alteration of, replacement or relocation of any water supply, sewer, drainage, drain leader, gas, soil, waste, vent or similar piping, electric wiring or mechanical or other work affecting public health or general safety.

 Public service agencies. A permit shall not be required for the installation, alteration or repair of generation, transmission, distribution, metering or other related equipment that is under the ownership and control of public service agencies by established right.


What Inspections do I need?

General Notes

Inspection requests must be made 24 hours in advance. Call our office at 860-665-8580 please note that Secretarys schedule all inspections.
Other inspections not specifically noted shall be requested as required.
State Law requires that you CALL BEFORE YOU DIG for any excavation.
1-800-922-4455 or 811

NOTE: Most inspections require access to the house and must be accompanied by the owner/owner representative over the age of 21


1. Erosion and sedimentary control when required .
2. Footing form and rebar work in position and before concrete is placed.
3. Foundation forms, rebar and hold down devices
4. Foundation footing drains and /or water proofing before backfilling.
5. Anchor bolts with nut, washer sill sealer and sill plate in place.
6. Rough framing, including, fire stopping, draft stopping and brace wall fastening along with rough plumbing, rough electric, and rough HVAC.
7. Electrical Service.
8. Insulation After all Rough inspections and before drywall installation.
9. Certificate of Occupancy inspection for new construction or final inspection for all other permits.When alterations or additions requiring a permit occur, smoke detectors and a Carbon Monoxide detectors shall be required and will be inspected at final/CO inspection.

1. Pier/footing inspection before concrete.
2. Framing and deck tension ties shall be inspected before the decking surface installation 
(required only if deck is less than four feet above grade).
3. Final inspection.

Electrical service
1. Final Inspection (access to house is required and must be accompanied by
owner/owner’s representative over the age of 21).

Pool ( Inground)
1. Rough Electrical / trench
2. Rebar (in ground only) / grounding and bonding
3. Final inspection which includes pool alarm, pool water bonding, fence and access gate.

Pool ( Above Ground) 24" or deeper

1) Underground electric

2) Final inspection which includes pool alarm, pool water bonding, fencing, if needed, and access gate.


Footing, foundation, concrete and underslab. Rough framing, plumbing, HVAC, and electric. Gypsum board (used as fire resistance related or shear wall assembly) Fire - resistant penetrations. Energy efficiency. Above ceiling. Other inspections including special inspections as determined by the Building Official and a Certicicate of Occupancy inspection.

What will the Permit fee be?

Any value of work up to $4000 has a fee of $50. If the value is over $4000, round up to the nearest thousand and the fee is $11 per thousand. (Do not add in the $50 for the first $4000) Zoning application if needed is an additional $15. The following table is used to calculate the value of the work to be done




Sq. Ft.. Cost




































How long will it take to get a Permit?

Normal circumstances 5 to 10 working days.We are allowed up to 30 days to approve or deny the permit. If there’s no review needed such as a new roof and no taxes are owed on the property, an inspector can sign the application immediately.

Why do I need a Permit?

To insure the work is in compliance with the Building Codes and is safe. Review of the plans and inspections will be done to be sure Code is met.

Do the Inspectors have a cell phone to contact them?

No, please call the office at 860-665-8580 to have the Secretary contact them if necessary.

Do I need a permit to build a fence?

A fence up to 6 feet in height does not require a permit as long as the fence is in the side and/or rear yard .

Where can I get a copy of my plot plan?

We have copies of most plot plans in the Building Department.

If I build or purchase a prefabricated shed do I need a permit?

Yes. If the shed is more than 200 square feet.If the shed is less than 200 square feet  a permit is not required.
You will have to supply a plot plan showing the proposed location of the shed and complete a Zoning application.

Sheds larger than 600 sq ft and a eave height over 10 feet will require a foundation. Sheds  smaller than 600 sq ft shall be anchored to resist wind induced uplift and overturning. A framing drawing shall be submitted (2 copies) or if the shed is prefabricated we need a copy of manufacturers literatrure. A zoning permit will also be required.

Do I need a permit to install a pool ?

Yes if the pool is more than 24” deep.

See link on our home page for further information.

A zoning application along with a plot plan showing location of the pool will be required.

Do I need a permit to install a deck?

Yes. You will need a zoning application and provide a plot plan showing the location of the deck. For further information please see Deck Requirements Link on our home page .

Do I need a permit to replace my windows?

Yes. There are requirements for emergency egress from bedrooms. Our office can provide you with more information.

Do I need a permit for a pellet/wood/coal stove?


A building permit must be taken out prior to installation of a solid fuel stove (wood, coal, pellet, etc). A copy of the manufacturer's specifications should be included with the permit application. These general guidelines may be used to install most stoves, new or used. If the stove is new, installation is in accordance with the manufacturer's specifications and installation instructions. Many new stoves have built in features that allow you to reduce the minimum clearance guidelines below. Please save these documents for our reference at the inspection time.

Without manufacturers instructions you should do the following;

1. Wood stove must be installed into it's own flue. A flue serving another appliance such as a furnace may not be used. Flues must be properly sized.

2. The stove should not have any cracks or broken parts which may make it unsafe to operate.

3 The stove must be located on a non-combustible floor or an approved floor protection material shall be placed under the stove.

4 Most stoves should be spaced out at least 36 inches away from any combustible material. If not, fire resistant materials, or heat shields, should be use to protect woodwork and other combustible surfaces. Check the manufacturers literature for clearances from combustables

5 Floor protection must extend out 6 to 12 inches from the sides and back of the stove, and 18 inches where the stove is loaded or cleaned out.

6 Stovepipe of 22 or 24 gauge metal is used. The stovepipe diameter cannot be reduced between the stove and the chimney flue.

7 A damper must be installed in the stovepipe near the stove unless one is built into the stove

8 There is at least 18 inches between the top of the stovepipe and the ceiling or other combustible material. Check manufacturers literature for minimum clearances.

9  The stovepipe slopes upward toward the chimney and enters the chimney higher than the outlet of the firebox.

10 The stovepipe enters the chimney horizontally through a fireclay thimble that is higher than the outlet of the stove firebox.

11 The stovepipe does not extend into the chimney flue lining.

12 The inside thimble diameter is the same size as the stovepipe for a tight fit.

13 A double-walled ventilated metal thimble is used where the stovepipe goes through the interior wall.

14 An ALL FUEL metal chimney can be used where a masonry chimney is not available or practical. The assembly must be approved by an acceptable testing agency such as UL (Underwriters' Lab).

15 The chimney is in good repair and the flue is not blocked.

16 The chimney flue lining and the stove pipe are clean.

Other things to consider

If you are not sure of the chimney condition, have the chimney inspected be a reputable contractor.

In general, chimneys should be cleaned at least once a year. Just prior to the heating season is the most practical time. If the chimney is used for full-time heating, a second cleaning should be done midway through the heating season.

We suggest that you notify the company insuring your property. They may want a copy of the permit and inspection report.

Burnt product disposal procedures should be carefully followed. For instance, ashes should be put into a metal container with a tight fitting lid. The metal container should then be removed from the house to cool on a non-combustible surface.

Be sure you are burning the proper type fuel for your stove and that it is of good quality.

Be sure the chimney extends to the proper height above the roof to insure a proper draft.

We recommend not operating a stove when it will be left unattended.

Smoke detectors should be installed and their operation checked periodically.

After the installation has been completed call our office for an inspection and we will coordinate the inspection with the Fire Marshals office

Do I need a permit for a Gas Fireplace?

Yes, you will need a plumbing permit to install the gas line and a building permit to install the fireplace.
Keep in mind that the gas line needs to be pressure tested and inspected by the Building Inspector before the line is connected. After the fireplace has been installed and connected to the gas line the Building Inspector will need to inspect the installation. Make sure that the manufacturer’s installation instructions are available for the final inspection

Who is responsible for obtaining a permit?

The homeowner is responsible for obtaining the permit for any work requiring a permit on one and two family( owner occupied) houses or their authorized agent, accompanied by a written authorization signed by the property owner. All other non residential work will require a licensed contractor to perform the work.

Why should I hire a licensed contractor?

Any person doing work who is not currently registered with the State of Connecticut is doing so illegally. Using a licensed contractor provides some protection to the homeowner for being charged for work not completed and/or materials not provided. Materials and suppliers and subcontractors can place a lien on your home if they do not receiver payment from your contractor. Trade licenses for those persons doing Home Improvement, Plumbing, Electrical, or Mechanical work provides some assurance that they have adequate knowledge and training in those fields.

The Building Dept. Verifies the license and insurance of all contractors applying for a permit.

If you are not hiring a registered contractor, you are missing out on $15,000 worth of protection!

The Dept. of Consumer Protection protects the homeowner by the Home Improvement Guaranty Fund. The fund can reimburse consumers up to $15,000 who are unable to collect for loss or damage suffered from a registered contractor's performance or offer to perform a home improvement. To find out if your contractor is registered contact the Dept. of Consumer Protection at 1.800.842.2649 or access the website on our home page.

Do I need a permit to convert my basement to a spare room.

A permit is required to finish a basement. Some of the requirements are too difficult to explain here please see our Single Family Residential Finished Basement form on our home page or call us and a Inspector would be happy to help you.

What permits require the installation of smoke/carbon monoxide detectors?

When alterations or additions requiring a permit occur the entire dwelling shall be provided with smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors. Call our office for more information on location and quantity of detectors required.

What codes are used by the Town of Newington?

The following codes are used by The Town of Newington.

2003 International Building Code

2009 International Residential Code

2003 International Existing Building Code

2011 National Electric Code

2003 International Plumbing Code

2003 International Mechanical Code

2009 International Energy Conservation Code

2003 ICC/ANSI A117.1/2003 Accessible and Usable Buildings and Facilities

All of the above mentioned codes have been supplemented by the State Of Connecticut  click here to download the supplements

Access for further information on the purchase of these codes please click on this link   then click on "Code Books for Sale" or you can purchase the code books from the Connecticut Building Officials web click here.

Make sure you check the Town Zoning requirements link which is located on our home page.

Do I need a permit to install a generator?


Please read the following information on the safe installation of a generator.


Standby electric generators can provide you an extra sense of security in view of Connecticut's unpredictable

weather and the occasional resulting power outage. We understand that a generator can be a convenient

source of power around your home or business. We only ask, for your sake and power company employees,

that generators be properly installed and used safely. Even small, portable electric generators - if they’re used

improperly - can threaten you safety and the safety of power company linemen working on the electrical


To protect yourself and your family, read and follow the safety instructions contained in every generator

operations manual. Before purchasing a generator, please consider how you’ll be using it. That will help you

ensure that you’re buying a generator that is correctly sized for the application you have in mind. Next, you’ll

need to know how it should be installed, and where to safely operate it. Finally, you’ll want to read the

summary of safety tips presented here to ensure the generator is correctly installed and used properly.

Portable generators

Portable, gasoline-driven generators are designed to be used with appliances with cords connected to them.

They can be especially convenient to use in remote locations, such as camping sites or construction areas.

Lights, small appliances, etc. can be plugged directly into outlets on portable generators. In general, they are

not designed to be connected to your home or any building wiring. Do not attempt to personally install these

devices to your electrical panel.

Fixed Generators

Large, fixed generators generally are directly connected to building wiring to provide standby power during

emergencies and power outages. However, the wiring needs to be properly installed by a qualified electrical

contractor. Properly installing a “permanent” generator is extremely dangerous, and not a “do it yourself” job.

If you plan to have this type of generator installed, you may need to obtain an electrical permit from the Building Department.

“Back Feeding” - a dangerous condition

Improperly connecting a portable generator to electric wiring can produce “back feed” - a dangerous current

that can electrocute or critically injure you or others. Back feed into power lines from a generator could create

“hot” power lines during an outage. Linemen who expect the line to be de-energized could be injured.

One good way to avoid back feeding is to install a double-pole, double-throw transfer-switch gear. A qualified

electrical contractor can install this transfer switch so that a dangerous back feed can be prevented.

The switch also will prevent utility power from damaging the generator when regular service is restored.

The dangers of carbon monoxide

When using a generator, be sure to locate it outside so poisonous carbon monoxide gas is exhausted and at least 10 feet from the home. Never

operate a generator in an enclosed building, especially in a building attached to a dwelling. Make certain, too,

that the generator has enough air to breath and that it’s exhaust is vented properly. Fumes from burnt fuel can

be deadly. Always insure proper ventilation, and air flow around the generator.

Generators and water don’t mix

Do not use a portable generator in a flooded basement. That could be a dangerous combination. In addition,

make sure your hands are dry, that you’re standing in a dry place, and the generator is properly grounded

whenever you operate your generator.

Using gasoline safely

Gasoline should only be stored in approved containers, and out of reach of children. It goes without saying

that all flames or cigarettes should be extinguished when handling gasoline. Have a fully charged, approved

extinguisher located near the generator, and never fuel a generator when the generator is running. Do not store fuel inside your house!

Here are some rules to follow to help assure that generators are installed and used safely:

  • Always check out the unit thoroughly each new season before you fire it up.
  • Never attempt to repair an electric generator, only a qualified serviceman should perform repairs.
  • Don’t remove or tamper with safety devices; they are there to protect you and your property.
  • Many engine parts are very hot during operation, severe burns may result if touched.
  • Keep children away from generators at all times.
  • Always properly disconnect from your utility service before starting your backup generator.
  • Don’t put your life at risk
  • Electric generators can provide you with piece of mind and convenience as long as you don’t take chances with your safety or the safety of others. Be sure to follow these safety guidelines so you don’t put yourself or the lives of others in danger.
  • Improper use or installation of an electric generator can cause property damage, serious injury and even death.